For an exquisite read about our Trip..........

Kim Miles is a bead artist from Taos, NM. Her blog is an incisive and eloquent read about our trip to Ethiopia. Her lastest posts are about 'life', but if you scroll down, it will not take you long to find the Ethiopia posts. Read in sequence or skim. Her photos are fabulous.

http://greetingsfromtaos.blogspot.com/

Photo slideshow

The hope ball coming May 2009 - all proceeds benefit the Cunningham Foundation.

Make a Smilebox slideshow

first day in Ethiopia - Visited the Shola school where the Cunningham Foundation sponsored their first library - we read to the kids and had our first experience of pulling out our cameras and got surrounded very quickly.  The no gun sticker was on one of the land rovers - have no idea if that means the other ones have them .........

It's Wednesday

Its Wednesday - I have no idea what the date is. No cell phones. No tv and 5 minutes of internet a day............. every 3 days. I will update my blog in more depth when I get back to Addis Ababa on Friday. We fly out Saturday :-( I can't believe how much I love it here. Tomorrow is Thanksgiving, we are in Butijara getting some bread for stuffing. Everything we have been eating is from the compound we are staying at. It is fully self sustaining. Veges, dairy, bread, meat etc is from the compound.............. yes why are we buying bread here for stuffing? I have absolutely no idea. At least its an excuse to get off the compound, watch 30 minutes of soccer on the BBC with dodgey reception and have a beer!!!!!!!!! at a hotel with roof top bar - picture a tree house, with wires everywhere for tv antena (sp?) and you have the visual of what it looks like. Hey did I mention they have beer.

Not going to lie, can hardly wait for a glass wine!

The kids all know my name now and they all scream it out when they see me in the morning and just about any chance they get.

The rest of the group went to Awasa and I decided to stay with my knitting girls. These kids are so smart - whether its glass bead making, wood work, the science building - international secret business going on - more in person......... and the knitting kids - they pick up everything we teach them in 5 minutes. THey are crazy for anything new or western.

More on Friday.

Julia

xoxoxoxoox

Day 1 in action

Mother Teresa orphanage

Today was an overload of the senses. It was like discovering a new color and trying to describe it. Utter disbelief, shock, culture shock, poverty.

We went to the Shola Library. No kids so the group is going back tomorrow.
We went to the Chavel Library. Wow. School full of kids. We had been warned about camera but didn’t believe it until we saw it. You pull out a camera and 20-30 kids run over with 30 smiles, pose and then they want to see it. I have great memories of today. We read to the kids and we had them read to us to practice their English. We donated some books on dreams. We asked the kids their dreams…….. teacher, artist, doctor, football player. Mainly teachers and doctors. The kids were the essence of joy.

Traffic and driving today was terrifying. Utter anxiety. There are no road rules here. No Accidents and actually by now I am used to it but the first four hours in the car was filled with white knuckles, screams and all of us uttering *oly *hit every 2nd sentence. I’m not afraid of my experience so far except for the driving/ traffic. Well that and the two guys who guard the gate of our hotel at night, dressed like militia, hell, they probably are.

Lunch today was at the Sheraton Hotel. It’s built like a palace and has 3 compounds within the border of the hotel. The food is all western food. Western portions. I ordered pizza, when it arrived I felt like crap. We all could only eat half and have decided here on in any meals, we’ll share. The poverty is unbearable. 50% of the population earn $100 per YEAR. 36% in the rural areas make $36 per year!. High security at the main western hotels, mirrors under the cars, complete sweep before you can go in. I am very glad we are not in the main tourist hotels!!

The Mother Teresa orphanage. First we entered the teeny tiny baby room. Most of them have been left at the gate of the compound by their mothers or by strangers who found them on the road. 90% of them have HIV and/or AIDS. Next we went to the infant room, 1, 2 and 3 years with no one but the nuns caring for them. The hardest and most fun room was the toddlers or kids around 5 & 6 – room was filled!!!!!!!!! With them, they would tug on your shirt, or just simply grab your and that child was basically yours until we left. I had lisa, she clung to me the whole and playing with the scarf I was wearing. She booted any kid who came near me. We went into their dorm where we were greeted with about 30 more. The kids were climbing all over us and just hugged us. Clung to us. Desperate for human contact. Hoping we would take them with us.

We met the doctors and volunteers, saw the adult kids make silk scarves. Then Tammy, Noel and I had a meeting with the head Sister. Tough cookie! From Czech Republic. Noel and Tammy went to request that I teach the older kids how to knit scarves because the re-sale in the US could earn them up to $100,000 to $150,000 in the first year. I’m headed back to the orphanage tomorrow to teach, along with Ruth, 18 year old Francie and anyone else I can teach tonight.

Unfortunately I will not have any photos from the Mother Teresa orphanage or my experience there. Photo’s are forbidden and the reason is tragic. Westerns were coming to the orphanage, taking photos, heading back to their country and raising money for the orphanage. Donors would come to Ethiopia and want to see what their money had done, they would meet with the head staff and inquire about the use of their $1000, $10,000……… the orphanage never saw a cent. It’s quite the racket where people use their photos of the orphanage to raise money for themselves.

Most of them will never be adopted, we met one child who has been adopted and headed for the US. Its rare. You have to be able to provide information on how you will pay for all the medical and pharmaceutical required to medicate a HIV child.

Tonight we are headed back to the Orphanage with Dr Hodes and his 17 kids for Shabas dinner. Yep a Jewish doctor in a catholic orphanage. Love it!! We ARE allowed to have camera tonight as it’s a private family dinner.

Highlights!!!!!

You have NO idea how much Obama is everywhere. Obama café, Obama store, t-shirts everywhere. When we visisted the grade 5 class at Mother Teresa orphanage one kid says where are you from? We say America, he smiles and says oh yes Obama Nation. A 9 year old kid in an aids orphanage in Ethiopia. He’s on every magazine cover and square inch of advertising. Truly amazing.

You cannot take photos of camels. We have not tried and will not. If you are seen pointing a camera at a camel it is death by stoning – it appears taking pictures of a camel makes them lose weight. And that’s a bad thing.

Goats are everywhere. EVERYWHERE. They travel in small herds by their owners. They hold up traffic. Not the goats the freak’n owners on their CELL PHONES!!!! I kid you not. This country is so full of contradictions.

First Morning Here

First morning here - its real now that its daylight. Goat herders sheperding down the street, I call it a street loosely and this is right out the front of our hotel.
For those of you who have seen the Sx in the City Movie - I have learnt well from Charlotte and kept my eyes and mouth closed during my entire shower this morning.
The airport experience last night was one I'll never forget. Wow Ethiopians have an amazing sense of family - for each person there was 50 people greeting them, I would have loved to have known their stories.

Today we are going to the Mother Teresa orphanage and having Shabis dinner with Dr Hodes and his 17 kids.

Food here at the hotel is of course very western - spaghetti last night, fried bread for breakfast and who doesn't love fried bread for breakfast. Apparently they think that's what a croissant is and hey, fat for fat content, probably is.

SOOOO excited to be here.

Mwah

Julia
xoxo

I'm here! I'm in Ethiopia.

It was very strange getting off the plane and into the airport. A thousand difference experiences of culture shock all at once. The FIRST thing that hits you is the smell - a cross between charcoal, burnt wood and old wine. Lots of polution here and we landed at 10pm. The flight was great!!!! everyone slept really well. English is not as prominent as I thought it would be and I'm totally ok with that. In the first 3 hours of landing lots of fear came up, people just surround you, push you - like that do to Japanese train passengers.

It was the night before Africa.............

So I leave tomorrow. YAY!!!!!!!!!!!!
Big things are happening. I just closed on my home, I officially have no debt any more. Closure to 9 years of my life and a big letting go of the past. Was soooo cool to meet the 25 year old kid who is now going to live in the house. I feel such a sense of relief. HUGE step in moving forward.

In other news I just took my first of four typhoid vaccine tablets - its a live virus - is it just me or does that just sound wrong. So I officially have the typhoid virus in me, nice! Also just took the first of 20 or so malaria meds - will take for 7 days after I get back to the US. Hoping I don't have the side effects of some people........... violent nightmares, nausea.

Also just got word from Noel that Project Mercy has one other knitter there and is excited to receive my 2 suitcases full of yarn. I'll take a video tonight of all the yarn I have. Americans are so generous!!

Yohannes in town - Dinner Friday night!!

http://www.rockymountainnews.com/news/2008/nov/13/ethiopia-reads-books-and-donkeys/
For anyone in Denver I am hosting a dinner at Strings tomorrow night for Yohannes and Ethiopia Reads. Its $100 per head. EVERY penny goes to Ethiopia Reads - Noel has once again generously donated all food and beverages.

Should be a great night.

Its next week

Its here! I leave next Wednesday. Ahhhhhhhh I'm excited and nervous. The nervousness is actually about coming back into the US. The visa/ greencard stamp in my passport allows me in the US until December 20 - lets see if I can pull strings and get another stamp in my passport. I can't tell you how much I hate customs/ entering into the US - treated like a foreinger (which I am) but hey - its been 9 years - give me a break!!! And the stamp is also important because I want to go home for Christmas............... can I pull off the christmas miracle of last year.

Yes. 9 years ago today I left Australia for Denver, Colorado. Its been an amazing journey. 

I really am burnt out right now. So much has been going on this year, convention and working 15 hour days, selling the house, packing and moving. I'm exhausted. Mentally and emotionally exhausted. here's a great article that articulates campaign exhaustion - regardless of being a winner or loser (feels great to win though!!) - this is a great article.

http://www.cnn.com/2008/POLITICS/11/07/brazile.losers/index.html

While in Ethiopia - the dogs will be staying with a friend. They had a test run on Saturday and had a sleep over. They did great. The apartment felt empty without them. I think its great they we just moved house and they have adjusted, can stay at someone elses home and feel ok.

Ok, so to those of you picturing me sleeping in a hut with cockroaches - I can allay your fears to rest. This is the hotel where we will be for the first two nights, then onto Project Mercy.

http://www.ararathotelethiopia.com/index.html

Here's a great map of Ethiopia.

http://www.maps.com/map.aspx?pid=1571

Julia G
xo

Sacred Sites

I am completely fascinated with the Sacred Sites within Ethiopia, especially the Ark of the Covenant. Dr. Akbarali Thobhani and Dr Carrie A. Besnette, Ph.D. will be staying in Ethiopia a week or two longer to study and travel to these places. If I wasn't leaving for Australia 3 weeks later I would have loved to have stayed and travelled with them. I'll save it for next year :-)



http://www.sacredsites.com/africa/ethiopia/sacred_sites_ethiopia.html



The Ark of the Covenant was the most famous object in the Tabernacle and Temple of the ancient Hebrews. Made of acacia wood covered with gold, the top of the Ark bore a carving of two winged cherubim. The cover of the Ark is called the "Mercy Seat" in the Authorised Version of the Bible.


The Ark contained the two replacement tablets of the Ten Commandments, made to replace the tablets smashed by Moses; the rod of Aaron that budded; and a vessel of manna from the wilderness of Sinai.


The Ark was the centre of a yearly ritual performed by the high priest of Israel. Once a year, on Yom Kippur, the Day of Atonement, he had to enter the Holy of Holies in the temple with the blood of a goat, sacrificed in the scapegoat ritual, which was to atone for the sins of all Israel. Other than during this ritual, no one was allowed to see the Ark.


It was thought to be the location of the direct presence of God, and as such posed a hazard to mere mortals. To touch the Ark meant instant death, even for an innocuous purpose like preventing it from falling out of an ox-cart. It may be for this reason that the Patriarch of Ethiopia is not eager to make the Ark into a tourist attraction.


The Ethiopians say that Menelik, son of Solomon and the Queen of Sheba, brought the Ark to Ethiopia. Menelik went on to become the founder of a long dynasty of Ethiopian kings. Haile Selassie, the last King of Ethiopia until he was murdered in 1975 by Marxist revolutionaries, was the last king of Ethiopia to claim descent from Menelik.

My Travel Mates

The team I am travelling with as dictated by Tammy from our recent meeting minutes......................

Dr. Akbarali Thobhani~ Executive Director, Office of International Studies/Metro State College - no expectations/would love to continue with ongoing studies for Ethiopian History

Carrie A. Besnette, Ph.D. Vice President for Institutional Advancement,Foundation Executive Director/Metro State College

Nicole with Metro State - student choosen - no expectations going with open mind and open to help..has done much in philanthropic world, beads of life, volunteer match.com

Mike Paskowitcz - Superintendent for Adams 12 County School District - No expectations, and intends on taking the experiences hehas and telling the stories

Ruth Paskowicz - his LOVELY wife ;) - she would like to help where she is most needed ;) Also knits - Yea

Jade Paskowicz - (daughter) Sports educatorKelli Buffo - DECA officer and teacher - there to help ribbon cutting for the new Colorado DECA Library around Awassa

Laurie Maves - Art therapist in Denver, is available to teach art, drawings, can do murals ;) - expectations - doing a mural in the library

Brent Weaver - our web master for web site video

Julia George - Knitter extrodinaire, yoga instructor :) - No expectations - raised $7,000 to open a library

Ari Bloom - No expectations - on debate team and hopes to pass on his travels with a sense of another world; Also, help to create Quarters for Kids Int'l at Cherry Creek High School and to date have raised $8,000 with a benefit concert in the works ;) yea! joined by his precious mom - Gwen - worried and a bit overwhelmed, happy Ari is more involved in school and the club ;)

Gabe Keeler - last year's President of DECA and took fundraising to new levels $20,000- $10,000 went to Project Mercy and $10,000 for the very first COLORADO DECA LIBRARY AND LEARNING CENTER traveling to cut the ribbon;) YEA! - currently a freshman at DU

Frances Fisher - ***out of town - able to sell over $6,000 of hearts to high schools in Tennessee!

Hannah Merten & her parents :) - did a video contest submission winning first prize, also involved in creating and running Quarters for kids Int'l at Cherry Creek High School - no expectations - joined by her lovely parents :)

Andrea Nieto - also a video contest submission

Natalie Villa - a video contest submission - wants to be a director - goes to Montbello High likes doing documentaries Kim Miles/Rick (her husband) are from New Mexico and leaving early to have time with Marta and Deme and setting up the bead studio - teaching beadmaking - Kim has contributed to the HOPE Bracelet project by getting a number of Bead artists to make beads SPECIFICALLY for the project every year! Yea!

Alex Boyd to continue teaching the art of bead making, joined us last year and is an amazing artist.

Tammy & Noel as well :)

Ooooh all most forgot my fun fact....

Socializing

The Amhara place great emphasis on formal but very courteous greetings to both friends and strangers. Shaking hands with one or both hands is common between members of the same sex. Friends often embrace each other formally but warmly. There is no physical contact when members of opposite sexes greet each other.

The Amharic home is generally a highly private and personal domain, and it is not usual to visit without an invitation. When visiting a home for the first time, a small gift is in order. Visitors are expected to accept any refreshments or food offered.

Mother Theresa Orphanage

Friday night, all of us traveling to Ethiopia together met at Strings with Tammy & Noel and discussed the trip at length. We found out what we'd be doing each day and where we were staying etc. Noel got to day two and "said and then all of us except Julia" will board the bus and we'll head to Project Mercy, Julia I'll fill you in later".................... NO! you're leaving me behind?. Breathe. So I found out that the Mother Theresa Aids Orphanage have requested that I stay with them for a day or two and pass on some knowledge. Which brings me to................. do I teach them knitting or finger knitting? How do I teach using non-verbal cues (as they dont' speak much english), clearly the usual ryhme to teach kids how to knit is not going to work...........

In through the front door
Around the back
Out through the window
And off jumps jack.

Anyway I am very excited, teany bit nervous about going. Mainly excited.
We are having a "packing party" the week before we go, mainly so Tammy & Noel can tell us what to take and what is ridiculous. Lots of head scarves/ bandanas for bad hair days, medications, basic shoes and clothes.......... I have a two page list - I'll get to it as soon as I pack my house, the dogs and move - my head hurts with thinking about how much I have to do between now and January........ move, Ethiopia, back to USA for 3 weeks and then home to Australia for Christmas.

Details and schedules are changing all the time so its a great chance to breath through it. I have officially let go of all my expectations. My biggest stress about Ethiopia is finding a decent dog sitter, my last one sucked. Marcello & India were NOT happy with me after New York. I need someone more nurturing and ramp up the visits to 3-4 times a day... anyway, something else to work on.

I really like the people I'm travelling with. There is a wide age range. Superintendent of Schools, high school kids, uni kids, a bead maker (who is amazing!!), Professors of International Studies from Metro State, an Artist, and Yoga instructor & Knitter :-)

I have found out there is possible 2 or 3 villages where if you stand on one leg, with your hair pulled back and chew gum, you 'might' get cell phone reception and/or internet connection, so I will hopefully keep up this blog (complete with photos), while I'm in Addis Ababa and Yetebon.

50 days to go and 50 shots

Well yesterday was the first step in my journey to Ethiopia. I had a number of vaccinations and got a prescription for another 3. I have travelled extensively but this is my first experience travelling to a 3rd world country - actually I'm not sure that's what you call Africa, but the shots remind me that I am not going somewhere I can experience art galleries and cafes and the most danger would be jay walking.

I'm excited to be travelling with Noel and Tammy and about 15 other wonderful people; amongst them are students who have raised money for Ethiopia Reads and/ or the Cunningham Family Foundation. I am nervous. I am excited.

I wanted to go on this trip after meeting Noel for the first time. What has since transpired is Noels vision that I share my passion for knitting at Project Mercy. I'm currently putting together ideas, materials and a plan to teach knitting at Project Mercy so that it may become a business for them, just as the Hope Bracelet Project has become.

Todays fact about Ethiopia is regarding food. As I have become Vegetarian, again! it seems I maybe surviving on grains :-)

Eating
The Ethiopian diet generally includes lamb, goat, and fowl. Ethiopians do not usually eat pork, turkey, or ham. Common foods include injera, a fermented bread made of teff flour (a native grain), and wat, a spicy stew made with beef or chicken. Strict religious dietary and fasting customs, especially for Muslims, also influence the diet. Many people survive on grains alone.
Amharic hosts take pride in offering guests the best meal they are capable of providing, and guests reciprocate by leaving some food on the plate to indicate that the host has more than adequately provided for them. Food is eaten with the fingers of the right hand, never the left.